Linen is a type of fabric that is made from the fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). It is one of the oldest known textiles and has been used for thousands of years. Linen is highly valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather, as well as its durability.

The flax plant has a tall, slender stem with blue flowers, and the fibers used to make linen are found in the inner part of the stem. To extract the fibers, the flax plants are harvested and then subjected to a process called retting, where the stems are exposed to moisture and microbe  to free the fibers from the rest of the stalk break down the outer layer and loosen the fibers. After retting, the fibers are separated, dried, and then processed to remove the outer bark and inner woody core from the valuable bast fiber bundles, which are spun into yarn or thread.

Linen fabric has several distinct characteristics. It is known for its strength and durability, and becomes softer and more lustrous with each wash. Linen is highly absorbent yet releases stains and dirt easily. It has good moisture-wicking properties, which make it an excellent choice for warm climates or summer clothing. It is also hypoallergenic, breathable, and has natural antibacterial properties.

Linen is used for a variety of purposes, including clothing (such as shirts, dresses, and suits), bed linens, tablecloths, towels, and upholstery. It is often valued for its natural, rustic appearance and its ability to provide a cool and comfortable feel. Additionally, linen is a sustainable fabric as flax is a renewable resource that requires fewer pesticides and water compared to other crops used in textile production.

Flax (Linum usitatissimum) is a flowering plant that is cultivated for both its seeds and fibers. It is one of the oldest cultivated plants and has been used by humans for thousands of years. Flax is primarily grown in cooler regions of the world, including Europe, North America, and Asia.

The flax plant has a slender stem that can reach a height of around three feet. It produces attractive blue flowers, which are followed by round seed capsules. Flax seeds are small and flat, and they are rich in nutrients, particularly omega-3 fatty acids, fiber, and lignans.

Flax seeds have various culinary uses and are commonly consumed for their nutritional benefits. They can be ground into flaxseed meal and added to smoothies, cereals, baked goods, or used as an egg substitute in vegan recipes. Flaxseed oil, derived from the seeds, is also used as a cooking oil and as a nutritional supplement.

The fibers of the flax plant are used to produce linen, a durable and breathable textile. Flax fibers are found in the inner part of the stem, and they are obtained through a process called retting. After retting, the fibers are separated, dried, and spun into yarn or thread, which is then used to weave linen fabric.

In addition to its uses in textiles and as a food source, flax has been used for various other purposes. The oil extracted from flax seeds is also used in the production of paints, varnishes, and linoleum. Flax fibers have been historically used in the manufacturing of paper and rope as well.

Flax is considered a valuable crop due to its versatility and sustainability. It requires fewer pesticides and water compared to other crops used in textile production, and the entire plant is utilized, making it a more environmentally friendly choice.

The reason why the plant used to produce linen (flax) has a different name from the finished textile (linen) is primarily due to the historical development of language and naming conventions.

Flax, scientifically known as Linum usitatissimum, is the plant species that produces the fibers used to make linen. The name "flax" comes from the Old English word "fleax" or the Proto-Germanic word "flahs."

On the other hand, the term "linen" is derived from the Latin word "linum," which means flax. Over time, "linum" evolved into "lin" in Old French and eventually became "linen" in English.

This distinction in names likely arose due to the usage and significance of flax fibers in textile production throughout history. The term "flax" specifically refers to the plant and its various uses beyond textile production, including its oil and seeds. In contrast, "linen" specifically refers to the fabric or textile produced from flax fibers.

Naming conventions often evolve based on cultural and linguistic practices. It's not uncommon for the raw material and the finished product to have different names, especially when there is a specific focus on a particular application or significance associated with the final product.

No, linen is not a new fabric or fiber. In fact, linen is one of the oldest known textiles in human history. The use of linen dates back thousands of years, with evidence of linen production found in ancient civilizations such as Egypt, Mesopotamia, and ancient Greece.

Linen has been used for various purposes throughout history, including clothing, bed linens, tablecloths, and more. Egyptian mummies were wrapped in bands of linen cloth. It has been highly valued for its exceptional coolness, durability, and natural properties.

The flax plant, from which linen is made, has been cultivated for thousands of years for its fibers. The process of retting the flax stems to extract the fibers and spinning them into yarn or thread has been practiced for centuries. Linen production techniques have evolved over time, but the use of flax fibers to create linen fabric has remained consistent.

So, while linen continues to be used and appreciated today, it is not a new fabric or fiber. It has a rich history and has been a significant part of human civilization for millennia.

Bast fibers are a type of long, strong, and flexible plant fibers that are derived from the phloem of certain plants. These fibers are found in the stems or stalks of specific plant species and are distinct from other types of plant fibers like leaf fibers or seed fibers.

The term "bast" comes from the Old English word "bæst," which refers to the inner bark of a tree. Bast fibers are typically characterized by their fibrous bundles that run parallel to the stem, providing strength and flexibility to the plant.

Some common examples of plants that yield bast fibers include flax, hemp, jute, ramie, kenaf, and nettle. Each of these plants has its own unique fiber characteristics, applications, and processing methods.

Bast fibers have been used for various purposes throughout human history. They are highly valued for their strength, durability, moisture-wicking properties, and suitability for textile production. Bast fibers are commonly used in the production of fabrics, ropes, twines, cordage, sacks, paper, and other products that benefit from their tensile strength and natural properties.

Compared to other plant fibers, bast fibers are known for their long length, fine texture, and relative ease of separation from the surrounding plant tissues. This makes them desirable for industrial and artisanal applications that require fibers with specific qualities, such as strength, fineness, and flexibility.

No! Linen is a type of fabric that is made from the fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). It is one of the oldest known textiles and has been used for thousands of years. Linen is highly valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather, as well as its durability. Cotton is a short staple fiber that grows in the bolls that form on the shrubby plant.  

The flax plant has a tall, slender stem with blue flowers, and the fibers used to make linen are found in between in bundles within the phloem tissue between the outer bark and the wooden center of the stem. To extract the fibers, the flax plants are harvested and then subjected to a process called retting, where the stems are soaked in dew or water to allow microbes to break down the pectin around the fiber bundles and loosen the fibers from the outer bark and inner wooden cores. After retting, the fibers are separated, dried, scraped or scutched, combed or hackled, through successively smaller combs and then spun into yarn or thread.

Linen fabric has several distinct characteristics. It is known for its strength and durability, and it becomes softer and more lustrous with each wash. Linen is highly absorbent and has good moisture-wicking properties, which make it an excellent choice for warm climates or summer clothing. It is also hypoallergenic, breathable, and has natural antibacterial properties.

Historically linen was the primary fabric used for bed sheets, towels, tablecloths and napkins and other household textiles, so that useful domestic textiles were generally called collectively “linens.” In modern homes many of those functions are now served by items made from cotton, polyesters or wood-based synthetics, but the collective name ‘linen’ persists, even though homewares would be more accurate.

Linen is used for a variety of purposes, including clothing (such as shirts, dresses, and suits), bed sheets and pillowcases, tablecloths, towels, and upholstery. It is often valued for its natural, rustic appearance and its ability to provide a cool and comfortable feel. Additionally, linen is a sustainable fabric as flax is a renewable resource that requires fewer pesticides and less water to grow compared to other crops used in textile production.

Linen and polyester are two different types of fabrics with distinct characteristics, compositions, and production processes. Here are the key differences between linen and polyester:

1. Fiber Source: Linen is a natural fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum), while polyester is a synthetic fabric made from petroleum-based polymers essentially a form of plastic.

2. Natural vs. Synthetic: Linen is a natural fabric, whereas polyester is a synthetic fabric.

3. Breathability: Linen is highly breathable and has excellent moisture-wicking properties, making it ideal for hot weather or warm climates. Polyester, on the other hand, is less breathable and may not allow air circulation as effectively.

4. Comfort: Linen has a natural, textured feel, tends to be more breathable and has better moisture absorption properties, and is known for its coolness and freshness on the skin, making it a popular choice for warm climates or hot weather. Polyester tends to be less breathable and may retain more moisture, and has a smoother, synthetic feel leading to a less comfortable feel in certain situations. 

5. Wrinkling: Linen is prone to wrinkling, as it is a natural fabric with a more relaxed structure. Polyester is less prone to wrinkling and has good wrinkle resistance.

6. Durability: Linen is a durable fabric that tends to become softer and more comfortable with each wash. Polyester is also durable and known for its resistance to stretching, shrinking, and wrinkles, but a polyester garment sheds thousands of microfibers and nanofibers each time that is washed. Those microfibers end up in our food chain. Linen, because it is not made from oil, does not shed plastic microfibers when washed, dried or worn.

7.  Aesthetics: Linen has a natural, textured look and a relaxed drape that many find appealing. Polyester can have a smooth and synthetic appearance, which may be preferred in certain applications or for specific fashion styles.

8. Care and Maintenance: Linen may need to be ironed or steamed to remove wrinkles. Polyester can often be machine-washed and dried without extensive ironing or steaming.

9. Environmental Impact during production: Linen is considered more environmentally friendly as it is made from a natural, renewable resource (flax) that requires fewer pesticides and less water to grow compared to the production of polyester from petroleum-based materials.

Linen and cellulosic fibers, such as wood-based viscose, rayon, modal, lyocell, and acetate, have several differences in terms of their composition, production processes, and characteristics. Here are some key distinctions:

1. Fiber Source: Linen is made from the fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). Cellulosic fibers, on the other hand, are derived from wood pulp, which can come from various sources, such as trees or bamboo.

2. Natural vs. Synthetic: Linen is a natural fiber, whereas cellulosic fibers can be considered semi-synthetic or regenerated fibers. Although they are derived from natural sources (wood pulp), their production involves chemical processing.

3. Sustainability: Linen is often considered more sustainable than many cellulosic fibers. Flax is a renewable resource that requires fewer pesticides and water compared to wood-based fibers. 

4. Breathability: Linen is highly breathable and known for its excellent airflow, moisture-wicking properties and for its ability to keep the body cool in hot weather. Some cellulosic fibers, such as lyocell and modal, also offer good breathability and moisture management, while viscose and rayon may not be as breathable as linen.

5. Comfort and Feel: Linen has a natural, textured feel and can offer a crisp, cool sensation. Cellulosic fibers like lyocell and modal can provide a softer and smoother feel, often likened to silk, while viscose and rayon may have a texture similar to linen or a more synthetic touch.

6. Wrinkling: Linen is prone to wrinkling due to its natural structure and drape, but hand smoothing and air-drying linen reduces its wrinkles. Cellulosic fibers generally have better wrinkle resistance compared to linen, with modal and lyocell being particularly known for their ability to resist wrinkles.

7. Durability: Linen is considered a durable fabric and can withstand regular use and washing. Cellulosic fibers can vary in terms of durability, with lyocell being known for its strength, while viscose and rayon may be less durable and prone to pilling.

8. Care and Maintenance: Linen machine washes and can be hand smoothed and air dried to reduce the need to be ironed or steamed to remove wrinkles. Linen tends to easily release food stains. Cellulosic fibers generally have similar care instructions, but specific care requirements can vary depending on the type of fiber.

It's important to note that each fiber has its own unique characteristics and benefits. The choice between linen and cellulosic fibers depends on personal preferences, specific needs, sustainability considerations, and the desired properties of the fabric for a particular use.

Caring for linen clothing is relatively simple, but it's important to follow specific care instructions on the garment or linen product, to ensure the longevity and maintain the appearance of the fabric. Always check the care instructions as some items may require hand-washing or dry cleaning. 

Washing:

- Linen can usually be washed either by hand or in a washing machine. 

- Use a gentle cycle and cold or lukewarm water.

- Mild detergent: Use a mild, eco-friendly detergent that is suitable for delicate fabrics. 

- Avoid using bleach or harsh chemicals, as they can damage the linen fibers.

- Separate colors: Wash linen clothing separately or with similar colors to prevent color bleeding or transfer

Drying:

 Linen can be air-dried or tumble-dried on a low heat setting. 

- Air drying: Hand smoothing before air-drying helps to minimize wrinkles After washing, reshape the garment and air dry it by hanging it on a clothesline or laying it flat on a clean, dry towel. Avoid exposing linen to direct sunlight for prolonged periods, as it can cause fading.

- Tumble-drying:  remove the linen from the dryer while it is still slightly damp to prevent excessive wrinkling.

- Wrinkle Management: Linen naturally wrinkles due to its fiber structure, but embracing the wrinkles as part of its charm is a popular choice. Hand smoothing and air drying minimizes wrinkes If you prefer a smoother look, ironing or steaming the fabric before use can help reduce wrinkles. 

Ironing: Linen naturally wrinkles, but if you prefer a smoother look, iron the garment while it is slightly damp or use a steamer. Set the iron to a medium heat setting and iron on the reverse side or use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric.

Linen Blends: Alternatively, you can choose blended linen fabrics that incorporate other fibers like cotton or synthetic materials, as they can enhance wrinkle resistance, but you may sacrifice some of the benefits of 100% linen fabric.

Storing:

- Folding or hanging: Store linen clothing by either folding it neatly or hanging it on a padded hanger. Avoid using wire hangers, as they can leave marks on the fabric.

- Breathable storage: Store linen garments in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area. Avoid storing them in plastic bags, as this can trap moisture and cause mildew.

- Avoid creasing: To prevent deep creases, do not leave linen clothing in a crumpled or folded position for extended periods. Regularly unfold or hang them to maintain their shape.

Additional Tips:

- Spot cleaning: For minor stains or spills, gently blot the affected area with a clean, damp cloth. Avoid rubbing vigorously, as it can damage the fibers. Linen tends to more readily to release food stains than cotton, silk or synthetics.

- Avoid excessive agitation: While linen is durable, avoid excessive wringing, rubbing, or twisting during the washing process, as it can cause damage or deformation.

- Professional cleaning: If necessary, consult a professional cleaner experienced in handling linen garments for more complex stains or delicate pieces.

Linen wrinkles due to its inherent nature and structure as a natural fiber. There are several reasons why linen tends to wrinkle more easily compared to other fabrics:

1. Fiber Structure: Linen fibers have a natural irregularity and stiffness. They have a thicker and coarser texture compared to other fabrics, which contributes to their tendency to wrinkle. The structure of the flax fibers used in linen fabric creates spaces and gaps that make the fabric more prone to wrinkling.

2. Lack of Elasticity: Linen fibers have low elasticity, meaning they do not readily bounce back to their original shape after being stretched or wrinkled. This characteristic contributes to the formation of wrinkles and creases, as the fabric doesn't have the ability to recover its smoothness easily.

3. Moisture Absorption: Linen has high moisture-absorbing properties. It can absorb and release moisture quickly, which affects the fabric's structure and can contribute to wrinkling. When linen absorbs moisture, it becomes more pliable and prone to creasing. Even normal body moisture can contribute to the formation of wrinkles while wearing linen garments.

4. Fabric Weight: Linen is typically a lightweight fabric, and lighter fabrics tend to show wrinkles more prominently. The combination of its weight and structure makes it susceptible to wrinkling, especially when folded or compressed for an extended period.

It's important to note that while linen does wrinkle more easily, this characteristic is often considered part of its natural charm and aesthetic appeal. Many people appreciate the relaxed and casual look that wrinkles give to linen garments. If desired, wrinkles in linen can be minimized by hand smoothing and air-drying the fabric when wet. properly hanging or storing the fabric, helps as does using steam or ironing on a lower heat setting. Or one can embrace the natural texture and wrinkles as part of the fabric's character.

The process of transforming fiber flax into linen involves several steps. Here is a general overview of the traditional method used for processing flax into linen fabric:

1. Harvesting: The flax plants are harvested when they reach maturity. The timing of the harvest is crucial, as it determines the quality and properties of the flax fibers. The plant is pulled from the ground by the roots, and laid in alignment on the ground in a thin layers as they are harvested.

2. Retting: After harvesting, the flax stems undergo retting, which is the process of breaking down the outer layers of the stem and separating the fibers from the woody core. There are two main types of retting: dew retting and water retting. Dew retting involves laying the flax stems on the ground and allowing them to be naturally exposed to moisture, dew, and microorganisms over a period of several weeks. Water retting involves immersing the flax stems in water, such as a pond or tank, to facilitate the decomposition of the outer layers by anaerobic microbes. Both methods result in dissolving the pectin that binds the fibers bundles to the inner and outer layers of the stem.

2. Drying: After retting, the flax fibers are dried to remove excess moisture. This is typically done by spreading the fibers out in the sun or in well-ventilated drying facilities.

3. Rippling – the fibers are combed to separate the seed bolls from the stem.

5. Breaking and Scutching: Once dried, the flax straw is mechanically broken to remove the woody core from the fibers. This process is called breaking. The broken flax straw is then scutched, which involves scraping the straw to further separate the fibers from the remaining woody material.

6. Hackling: The flax fibers are then hackled, which involves combing them through a series of ever finer metal teeth to remove any remaining impurities and to align the fibers in parallel strands. This process helps to refine the fibers and prepare them for spinning.

7. Spinning: The hackled flax fibers are now ready for spinning into yarn or thread. The fibers are twisted together to form a continuous length of linen yarn. Keeping the fibers moist while spinning yields a smoother, higher quality yarn.

8. Weaving: The linen yarn is woven on a loom to create linen fabric. The weaving process interlaces the warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) yarns to form the fabric structure.

9. Finishing: After weaving, the linen fabric may undergo additional finishing processes, such as bleaching, dyeing, or softening, depending on the desired properties and appearance of the final fabric.

Modern industrial processes may involve variations and technological advancements in some of these steps. However, the general principles of retting, rippling, breaking, scutching, hackling, spinning, and weaving remain fundamental to the production of linen from fiber flax.

The choice between dew retting and water retting for bast fiber, such as flax, depends on various factors, including climate, available resources, desired fiber quality, and local practices. Both methods have their advantages and considerations:

1. Dew Retting: Dew retting involves exposing harvested flax stalks to the natural environment, on the ground, relying on dew, moisture, and microbial activity to break down the pectin that binds the fiber to the stem. Dew retting is typically practiced in regions with specific climate conditions, including moderate temperatures, high humidity, and frequent dew formation.

Advantages of Dew Retting:

- Natural process: Dew retting is a traditional, environmentally friendly method that utilizes natural processes and microorganisms.

- Retains fiber strength: Dew retting is known to result in fibers with good tensile strength and potential for high-quality linen production.

- Cost-effective: Dew retting does not require large amounts of water, making it a more cost-effective option in areas with limited water resources. The stems do not to be turned, maintaining their alignment during the retting process.

Considerations for Dew Retting:

- Climate dependency: Dew retting is heavily reliant on climatic conditions, and the success of the process is affected by weather patterns. Unsuitable climate conditions can lead to inconsistent or incomplete retting.

- Longer retting time: Dew retting generally takes a longer time compared to water retting, often requiring several weeks to months.

2. Water Retting: Water retting involves submerging flax stalks in water, typically in ponds, tanks, or running streams, to facilitate the anaerobic microbial breakdown of pectin. Water retting is more commonly practiced in regions where water resources are abundant.

Advantages of Water Retting:

- Faster process: Water retting is generally a quicker process compared to dew retting, often taking about one to two weeks.

- Greater control: Water retting allows for more control over the retting process by regulating water quality, temperature, and duration.

- Consistency: Water retting can provide more uniform and consistent results compared to dew retting, as the conditions can be better managed.

Considerations for Water Retting:

- Water requirements: Water retting requires a significant amount of water, making it less feasible in areas with limited water resources. The anaerobic process is quite odorous; even when the retting is complete the fiber may continue to have an undesirable odor. The water let after the retting is polluted and cannot be directly discharged without appropriate treatment. 

- Potential fiber damage: Inadequate water quality or improper handling during water retting can result in fiber damage or color variations.

- Water retting has been banned in the European Union, which is a major source of retted flax. 

The choice between dew retting and water retting depends on the specific circumstances and goals of the flax producer. Factors such as local climate, water availability, fiber quality requirements, cost considerations, and traditional practices play a significant role in determining the preferred retting method.

Both decortication and scutching are important processes in obtaining flax fiber from the flax plant. Each process serves a specific purpose in fiber extraction, and the choice of which process is better depends on the desired end use and specific circumstances. Let's look at each process and their characteristics:

1. Decortication: Decortication involves mechanically stripping the outer bark or the straw of the flax plant to separate the fiber bundles from the woody core. This process typically involves passing the stalks through rollers or a decortication machine that crushes and breaks the straw, separating the long fibers from the core.

Advantages of Decortication:

- High fiber yield: Decortication is known to produce higher fiber yields compared to scutching.

- Less labor-intensive: Decortication can be less labor-intensive compared to scutching, as it can be mechanized with modern decortication equipment.

Considerations for Decortication:

- Equipment availability: Decortication requires specialized machinery, which may not be readily available or cost-effective for small-scale or localized operations.

- Impact on fiber quality: Improper decortication techniques or harsh processing can lead to fiber damage or shorter fibers, reducing the quality of the resulting fiber.

2. Scutching: Scutching involves manually or mechanically beating the flax straw to separate the fiber from the woody hurd or shives. During scutching, the flax straw is typically passed through a set of rotating blades or beaten with wooden or metal tools to break and separate the fiber.

Advantages of Scutching:

- Traditional method: Scutching has been a long-standing method for extracting flax fiber and has a well-established history in the industry.

- Preservation of fiber length: Scutching can help preserve the length of the flax fibers, which is important for certain textile applications.

- More accessible for small-scale operations: Scutching can be performed using simple tools and equipment, making it more accessible for small-scale or artisanal operations.

Considerations for Scutching:

- Labor-intensive: Scutching can be labor-intensive, requiring manual effort and skilled handling to effectively separate the fiber from the straw.

- Potential for lower fiber yield: Scutching may yield slightly lower fiber quantities compared to decortication, as some fibers may remain embedded in the hurd.

The choice between decortication and scutching depends on factors such as the scale of operation, available resources, desired fiber quality, and market requirements. Large-scale commercial operations often lean towards decortication due to higher fiber yields and mechanization capabilities. However, scutching can still be a viable option for smaller-scale operations or those aiming for specific fiber characteristics and preserving traditional practices.

Yes, the process of transforming fiber flax into linen can be mechanized to various extents. While traditional methods of linen production involved manual labor and hand tools, modern technology has introduced mechanization to streamline and expedite the process. Here are some ways in which the process of creating linen can be mechanized:

1. Retting: The retting process can be mechanized by using equipment that facilitates dew retting or water retting. Machinery can aid in the controlled soaking or spraying of flax stems to promote the retting process. This allows for more efficient and consistent retting compared to traditional manual methods.

2. Breaking and Scutching: Breaking and scutching, which involve separating the flax fibers from the woody core, can be mechanized using specialized machinery. Machines called scutching mills or scutching machines are designed to break up the flax straw and remove the woody material. These machines employ rotating cylinders, blades, and beaters to mechanically process the flax stems.

3. Hackling: Hackling, the combing of the flax fibers to remove impurities and align them in parallel strands, can also be mechanized. Automated hackling machines are used to comb the flax fibers through metal teeth or combs, effectively removing any remaining waste material.

4. Spinning: Spinning flax fibers into linen yarn can be done using spinning machines. These machines automate the twisting process, spinning the flax fibers into continuous lengths of linen yarn. Modern spinning machines can vary in design, with some utilizing ring spinning or rotor spinning techniques.

5. Weaving: The weaving of linen fabric can also be mechanized using power looms or industrial weaving machines. These machines automate the interlacing of the warp and weft yarns to create linen fabric. Power looms can greatly increase the speed and efficiency of the weaving process compared to traditional handloom weaving.

Mechanization offers benefits such as increased productivity, consistency, and speed in the production of linen. However, traditional and artisanal methods of linen production still exist and are valued for their craftsmanship and unique qualities. The degree of mechanization employed may vary depending on factors such as the scale of production, cost considerations, and desired product characteristics.

Yes, linen is produced in the United States, but not currently at commercial scale or in large quantities.  The production of linen in the US is predominantly done in small plants by fiber enthusiasts and artisans, and then harvested and processed by traditional hand methods. There are, however, initiatives in California, https://chicoflax.com/who-we-are/, Oregon, https://www.fibre-evolution.com/ and Pennsylvania, https://paflaxproject.com/, to restore the larger scale growing and mechanized harvesting and processing of flax for fiber which are being supported by the Fibershed movement. The North American Linen Association supports the restoration of commercial flax cultivation and processing in North America.  

There are American companies and artisans that specialize in the production of linen products, including clothing, bedding, and home textiles that are eager to use linen fabric produced from flax grown and processed domestically.

Is linen produced at commercial scale in the US?

Sadly no, but the North American Linen Association (NALA) with the support of the Fibershed movement is trying to change that. Wisconsin Linen Revival is also working to be the part of that change. 

Linen production in the United States is not as widespread or commercially significant as it is in some other countries with longer histories of linen production, such as France, or Belgium Ireland. Any very small amounts of linen are produced in the US, primarily by local artisans and fiber fans who harvest and process flax fiber by hand.

The global linen market is still largely dominated by European cultivation and Asian processing. However, with the growing interest in sustainable and natural textiles, there has been increased attention and support for domestic linen production in the US. As consumer demand for linen products continues to rise, it's the vision of Wisconsin Linen Revival and NALA that commercial linen production in the US could expand in the future.

Virtually all commercial scale linen production in the United States had ceased by the end of World War II. Commercial scale cultivation of the flax fiber is limited primarily to France and Belgium. China imports the largest share of unprocessed flax fiber, which is processed there, and spun and woven into linen fabric for the global textile market

There are many regions in North America that are well suited for flax cultivation.  Flax for fiber can be grown as a winter crop in southern states, allowing for the possibility of double cropping.  Fiber flax can be grown as an early season summer crop in states such as Minnesota, Wisconsin, North Dakota, Oregon, Pennsylvania and Montana. To restore commercial scale linen production, however, it is necessary to rebuild the harvesting and processing infrastructure in these to be able to transform flax fibers into linen fabric.

The flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) provides various products from its seeds. Here are some of the possible products derived from flax seeds:

1. Flaxseed Oil: Flaxseed oil, also known as linseed oil, is extracted from flax seeds and is widely used for culinary and industrial purposes. It is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and is used in cooking, though it has a low smoke point, so it is better suited for salad dressings, and as a nutritional supplement.

2. Whole Flaxseeds: Whole flaxseeds can be consumed as a dietary supplement. They are a good source of dietary fiber, protein, omega-3 fatty acids and micronutrients. They can be added to smoothies, yogurt, oatmeal, or used as a topping for baked goods.

3. Ground Flaxseeds: Flaxseeds can be ground into flaxseed meal or flaxseed powder. Ground flaxseeds are easier to digest and provide better nutrient absorption. They are often used as an egg substitute in baking or added to cereals, granola, and baked goods.

4. Flaxseed Meal: Flaxseed meal is obtained by grinding flaxseeds into a coarse flour-like consistency. It is commonly used as a gluten-free ingredient in baking, as a thickener in soups and stews, or as a nutritional boost in smoothies and shakes.

5. Flaxseed Fiber: Flaxseed fiber is a byproduct of flaxseed oil extraction. It is rich in dietary fiber and can be used as an ingredient in various food products, such as bread, muffins, and cereal bars, to increase their fiber content.

6. Flaxseed Lignans: Flaxseeds contain lignans, which are plant compounds known for their antioxidant and potential health benefits. Flaxseed lignans can be extracted and used as dietary supplements or added to functional foods and beverages.

7. Flaxseed Animal Feed: Flaxseed meal and oilcake, the byproducts of flaxseed oil extraction, are often used as animal feed. They provide a nutritious source of protein, fat, and fiber for livestock, poultry, and aquaculture.

The versatility of flax seeds makes them valuable for various applications, ranging from human nutrition to industrial uses and animal feed.

The flax plant provides various products from its fiber, which is obtained from appropriately processing the stem of the plant. Possible products derived from flax fiber include:

1. Linen Fabric: Flax fiber is used to produce linen fabric, which is highly valued for its durability, breathability, and natural properties. Linen is commonly used for clothing, bedding, tablecloths, towels, and other textiles.

2. Linen Yarn and Thread: Flax fiber is spun into linen yarn or thread, which is used in various textile applications. Linen yarn is used for knitting, weaving, and embroidery, creating fabrics and products with a distinctive linen texture.

3. Linen Blends: Flax fiber can be blended with other fibers, such as cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers, to create linen blends. These blends combine the qualities of flax with the desired characteristics of other fibers, resulting in fabrics with enhanced properties.

4. Non-Woven Products: Flax fiber derived as a secondary product from growing seed or from tow, the residue from processing the fiber to be spun, can be used in the production of non-woven products, such as non-woven fabrics, mats, and insulation materials. Non-woven flax products find applications in sectors like construction, automotive, and agriculture.

5. Paper and Cardboard: Flax fiber can be used as a raw material in the production of specialty papers, such as currency paper, high-quality stationery, and archival papers. It can also be incorporated into cardboard for packaging and other paper-based products.

6. Composite Materials: Flax fiber has gained attention as a reinforcement material in composite manufacturing. Flax fiber composites can be used in applications such as automotive parts, sporting goods, and construction materials, providing strength, lightweight properties, and eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic fibers or fibers made from glass.

7. Insulation and Building Materials: Flax fiber can be processed into insulation materials for buildings, offering thermal and acoustic properties. Additionally, flax fibers can be incorporated into construction materials, such as concrete, particleboard and panels, for added strength and sustainability.

The versatility and desirable properties of flax fiber make it valuable in various industries, including textiles, paper, composites, construction, and more.

Flax straw, which remains after collecting the seeds, can be utilized to create various products. Finding secondary uses avoids the polluting practice of burning the waste straw in order to clear the fields and provides another income stream for farmers. 

Possible uses for flax straw include:

1. Animal Bedding: Flax straw can be processed and used as bedding material for animals, including livestock, horses, and pets. It provides a comfortable and absorbent bedding option.

2. Mulch and Compost: Flax straw can be shredded or chopped and used as mulch in gardening and landscaping. It helps retain moisture, suppress weed growth, and improve soil health. Flax straw can also be composted to create organic matter for enriching soil.

3. Biomass Fuel: Flax straw can be used as a source of biomass fuel. It can be compressed into pellets or briquettes for heating or energy generation in pellet stoves, biomass boilers, or power plants.

4. Craft and Decorative Uses: Flax straw can be used in various craft and decorative applications. It can be woven or braided to create traditional crafts, such as baskets or floral arrangements. Flax straw can also be used as natural accents in home decor or as a component in handmade paper.

5. Building Materials: Flax straw can be processed into building materials, such as particleboard or fiberboard. These materials can be used in construction for interior applications like wall panels, furniture, or flooring.

6. Soil Erosion Control: Flax straw can be employed for erosion control measures. It can be spread over bare soil in construction sites, slopes, or areas prone to erosion to help stabilize the soil and reduce runoff.

7. Animal Feed and Fodder: Flax straw can be used as feed or fodder for livestock, particularly ruminants like cattle or sheep. It can be processed and incorporated into animal feed formulations to provide dietary fiber and bulk.

The utilization of flax straw helps maximize the resource and reduce waste, finding applications in agriculture, energy, construction, crafts, and more. The specific utilization can vary based on local demand, availability, and the processing capabilities in a particular region.

Yes, it is possible to obtain both seed and fiber from the same flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). Flax is a dual-purpose crop, meaning it can be cultivated for both its seeds and fiber.

Flax plants typically reach maturity after around 90 to 110 days, at which point the seeds are ready for harvesting. The mature flax plant produces seed capsules or bolls containing the flaxseeds. These seeds are harvested for their culinary and nutritional uses, as well as for oil extraction.

After the seed harvest, the remaining plant stalks, known as flax straw, can be processed to extract the flax fibers. The fibers are obtained by retting the flax straw, separating the fibers from the woody core, and subsequently processing them through breaking, scutching, hackling, and spinning techniques. This process yields linen fibers that can be used to create linen fabric and other linen products.

So, by cultivating flax, farmers can obtain both the valuable flaxseeds and the flax fibers from the same plant. This dual-purpose characteristic of flax makes it an economically versatile crop, allowing for the utilization of multiple parts of the plant.

The quality of flax fiber obtained from the flax plant after the seed matures is coarser than the the fiber obtained from less mature plants. Generally, the quality of flax fiber is considered to be highest when harvested at the optimal stage of maturity, which is before the plant reaches full seed development.

Flax fiber quality is influenced by several factors, including the stage of plant maturity. Fiber quality is assessed for such characteristics as fineness, length, strength, and uniformity. Here are some considerations regarding the quality of flax fiber obtained after seed maturity:

1. Fiber Coarseness: As the flax plant matures and the seeds develop, the fibers can become coarser and thicker. This coarseness can affect the perceived quality of the fiber and its potential uses. Finer and more uniform fibers are generally considered to be of higher quality.

2. Length: Flax fiber length is an essential factor in determining its quality. The length of the fiber tends to decrease as the plant matures and the seeds develop. Longer fibers are generally preferred for textile applications as they provide better strength and processability.

3. Strength: Fiber strength is crucial for its usability and durability. While the strength of flax fibers may still be acceptable after seed maturity, it can be influenced by factors such as plant health, harvesting methods, and seed development. High-quality flax fiber typically exhibits good strength characteristics.

4. Uniformity: Uniformity of flax fiber refers to consistency in characteristics such as length, diameter, and color. Less mature plants may have more uniform fiber, which can contribute to better overall quality.

There can be variations in fiber quality within a single plant, even when harvested at the same stage of maturity. Factors such as plant genetics, density of seeding, rainfall and temperature while growing, and harvesting, retting and processing techniques can all affect fiber quality.

While fiber obtained from less mature flax plants may generally be considered of higher quality, there are still potential uses for fiber obtained after seed maturity. Depending on the intended application, such fiber can be suitable for coarser textiles, non-woven products, as reinforcement in composites or other industrial uses.Overall, fiber quality is a complex combination of factors, and the optimal stage of flax plant maturity for fiber harvesting may vary depending on specific industry requirements and end-use applications.

Flax is not grown for either seed or fiber at commercial scale in Wisconsin.  The mission of Wisconsin Linen Revival is to support the commercial cultivation and processing of fiber flax and as new resilient, soil and climate friendly crop to diversify Agriculture in Wisconsin.

In Wisconsin, the central and northern regions of the state are generally considered better suited for growing flax for fiber production. These areas offer favorable climate and soil conditions that support the successful cultivation of flax and the production of high-quality fiber. Generally flax will grow well regions that are well suited to growing potatoes, beans and peas. As long as flax has adequate moisture, it grows well in cooler temperatures and poorer quality soil than corn and soybeans require.  Flax should be grown in rotation with other crops, being cultivated no more frequently than every four years, and ideally seven years.  

Linen, while valued for its unique properties and aesthetic appeal, currently accounts for less than 0.5% of global textile market share. By contrast cotton has 26% of market share and polyester, commands 54% of the global textile market. The market share of linen is influenced by several factors, including consumer preferences, the labor intensity of processing and relativly limited supply which drives up the price. Nevertheless, linen has been experiencing increased demand in recent years due to growing interest in eco-friendly and natural fibers. Linen's breathable, durable, and biodegradable qualities, as well as its association with sustainability, have contributed to its popularity.

Harvesting, processing, handling, and storing flaxseed involves several steps to ensure the preservation of its quality. Here's a general overview of the process:

1. Harvesting: Flaxseed is typically harvested when the flax plants have reached maturity, and the majority of the seed capsules have turned brown. This is usually around 90 to 110 days after planting. Harvesting can be done using traditional methods like swathing (cutting the plants close to the ground) or by direct combining (using specialized equipment to harvest the seed).

2. Drying: After harvesting, it's crucial to dry the flaxseed to reduce its moisture content. Proper drying helps prevent spoilage and maintains seed quality. The seed can be spread in a thin layer on clean, dry surfaces or drying racks in a well-ventilated area. Stirring or turning the seed periodically helps promote uniform drying.

Rippling: Flax stems must be passed through a specialized comb to separate the seed capsules from the stalks. 

3. Threshing: Once the flaxseed is sufficiently dry, the next step is to separate the seed from the seed capsules or bolls. This process is called threshing. Threshing can be done using specialized equipment, such as a combine harvester or a mechanical flax thresher. The goal is to separate the seed from the plant material while minimizing damage to the seeds.

4. Cleaning: After threshing, the flaxseed should be cleaned to remove impurities, such as plant debris, chaff, or immature seeds. Cleaning can be accomplished by using screens, sieves, or air separators that allow the heavier, clean seed to separate from lighter debris.

5. Storage: Proper storage conditions are essential to maintain the quality of flaxseed. The seed should be stored in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area to prevent moisture absorption, heat build-up, and the growth of molds or pests. Storing flaxseed in clean, airtight containers or bags can help protect it from external moisture and contaminants.

Flaxseed is prone to rancidity due to its high oil content, so to extend its shelf life, the seed should be stored in whole form and only crush or grind it as needed.

Following best practices for harvesting, drying, rippling, threshing, cleaning, and storage helps maintain the quality, flavor, and nutritional value of flaxseed throughout its lifecycle.